Teaching Dog Obedience | Behavior & Puppy Training

Charging the Clicker

2010-09-25T10:43:00.001-05:00

An integral part of operant conditioning - also known as clicker training to the average dog owner - is the marker which tells the dog she's performed the desired behavior. While technically "any" sound can be made to mark behavior (such as a whistle or even a word, such as "Good!"), studies have shown that animals trained with a clicker as the marker learn quicker.

Why is that, you might ask? The reason is simple - the clicker makes only one sound, without variance in pitch, tone, loudness, etc. Therefore the dog knows that exact sound means he's offered the desired behavior. Before beginning any type of clicker training, first your dog must of course know the meaning of the clicker. To start him off, it's merely a matter of equating the sound of the click with some sort of "paycheck," the easiest being treats.

(While you can use any of your dog's reinforcers for training, the easiest to use is small, chewy treats. This is only because it takes the dog a very small amount of time to eat the treat. If you're using toys or play with a dog new to clicker training, it might take her longer to understand the exact correlation of desired behavior to paycheck.)

Charging the clicker is easy: simply get your dog into a low-stimulus environment (somewhere inside is ideal) and begin by clicking and treating. It's best to click, pause, then treat (think of a waltz tempo) since animals can only process one stimulus at a time. I.e., if you click and treat simultaneously, your dog might not be listening to the clicker and it'll take longer to pair the 2 together.

Here's a quick example of how to charge the clicker:

Once you've primed the clicker and your dog understands that click = treat, you can begin rewarding your dog for performing desired behaviors. Remember to only focus on one behavior at a time - try "sit," then end that session (and maybe even move to a new location) before starting on "down," etc.

Now you can teach your dog just about anything!

Training "Play Dead" Behavior

2010-07-21T15:57:00.000-05:00

Some people might think training a dog to "play dead" is just a cute trick. Dog owners, on the other hand, could look at it as a great behavior to teach in order to help relax a dog. Besides, when it comes time to add a verbal cue to a behavior, you can name it anything you want – regardless of whether everyone else thinks it's just "playing dead"!

Speaking of adding cues, it's important not to begin throwing either verbal or signaled cues around too early when teaching a behavior. Remember, dogs aren't people. They don't understand language; that being said, they CAN learn what movements and words mean when taught properly to cue behaviors.

Here's my first session with Zada working on getting her to lie flat – relaxed – on her side. I'm not so much shaping this behavior as I am capturing it. She was already consistently offering it in her repertoire of offered behaviors so I merely waited to capture it. (If I were truly shaping, I'd have rewarded her in the beginning for first lying down, then flipping over onto her hip, then starting towards the ground, etc.)

Notice how she'll hit a "snag" and get confused as to what I want. By remaining consistent and waiting for her to offer the correct behavior, I let her figure out what pays and she works through it. The next step is to get her consistently offering the full behavior – i.e., lying flat on her side, relaxed, and holding it – every time. Then I can start adding in cues and also work on the duration of the behavior.

101 Things To Do With a Box

2010-07-14T15:56:00.005-05:00

Did you know dogs can learn to be creative?

My German shepherd, Zada, is very obedient and disciplined but she seemed almost robotic...she was happy and healthy but always seemed to be waiting for me to tell her what to do. I learned a good way to stimulate her mentally and get her creative juices flowing was to play a game called "101 Things To Do With a Box."

Purpose of 101 Things To Do With a Box Game
What's the point of this game, and what does it actually DO for a dog? Well, the object is to get the dog thinking and offering behaviors. Even if your dog already offers behavior, this is a great way to make any dog think "outside the box," so to speak.

Starting The Game
To start, place a box in a relatively low-stimuli environment (inside works best). If your dog isn't used to the positive reinforcement method of clicker training, you'll need to prime the clicker first. Once the dog knows that click = treat (i.e., the click denotes the desired behavior was achieved, which results in a treat), you can start the game.

At first, your dog might not pay much – if any – attention to the box. In that case, you'll need to reward ANY behavior which indicates the dog has acknowledged it. This could be walking by it or even turning the head in the direction of the box.

If you keep rewarding any behavior which focuses on the box, the dog will quickly catch on. Once he knows that paying attention to the box is the desired behavior, and is consistently returning to it, then you can start clicking and treating for different behaviors. The object here is to not treat for the same behavior twice; you want the dog to figure out it's DIFFERENT behaviors which pay.

Examples: Zada touches the side of the box with her nose (click). She lifts her right paw and puts it on top of the box (click). She sniffs/rubs her nose on the top of the box (click). She does this a couple times, then lifts her LEFT paw onto the box (click). Basically, if she's already touched a portion of the box with a body part, she must either a) touch a different portion of the box or b) use a different body part in order to receive the click and treat the next time.

At one point, see she lies down facing me (keep in mind I'm not making eye contact with her at any point) and while she isn't paying 'specific' attention to the box, she shifts her weight and her tail touches the box (click). She most likely didn't know WHY she got clicked, but the more I work with her, the more she'll figure it out.

On her next try, she did much better and knew what was 'expected' of her right from the get-go of the session.

This game of course isn't limited to using a box. Play around with a chair, ottoman, ball, skateboard – whatever! After playing around with 101 Things To Do a few times, your dog will start offering you behaviors more readily. Then it gets really fun: you can start shaping trick behavior!

***And yes, I'm well aware my dog is NOT good at catching treats in her mouth. But she DOES try :)

Shaping Behavior: Teaching Tricks

2010-07-10T12:06:00.004-05:00

Whether for new tricks or "normal" obedience cues, shaping is a great way to teach a dog a new behavior. This method seems to 'stick' with the dog much more quickly and for a longer duration than either luring or – something I don't recommend – making the dog perform the behavior.

If you've never tried this training method, it might take a while for both you and the dog to get the hang of it. But the rewards are worth the patience!

How Do I Start Shaping My Dog's Behavior?
First and foremost, your dog must understand clicker training. If he doesn't, you'll first need to charge the clicker before you begin.

You can free shape anything; you need to have in mind what you want before you begin so you can remain consistent with your rewards. Simple obedience staples – sit, down, stand, etc. – are fairly simple, since these are behaviors a dog performs every day. Often when teaching these behaviors with free shaping, it's more a matter of capturing the behavior versus technically shaping. Tricks, on the other hand, can prove much harder – but also more fun! – because they often involve small increments of shaping which eventually turn into the full behavior.

If you have a dog who doesn't readily offer behaviors, you can work on getting her to offer more behaviors with a simple game called 101 Things To Do With a Box. When playing this game, you might start to notice your dog offering one or more behaviors more often; you can start by shaping those behaviors and give yourself a 'head start.'

This is what I did with Zada. While playing "101 Things" I noticed she had an inclination to lie next to the stool and rest her chin on it. After ending that game, I began a new session, working on shaping just that behavior. She caught on relatively quickly, but I attribute that to having chosen a behavior which she was already offering. This was the first time I'd ever attempted shaping this behavior:

After a brief respite, this is the second free shaping session. You can see she immediately started offering the behavior. I then 'upped the ante' by throwing her treats so she'd miss them, thus forcing her to get up and start over. This shows me if she's really understanding what behavior I'm looking for. She did very well!

Before giving her her meals, I'd also started waiting until she'd offered the behavior of lying flat on her side, which she's started offering consistently. Therefore, I devoted an entire session to shaping "play dead" – which I think I'll be able to start adding cues to soon.

The possibilities are literally endless with free shaping behaviors – it's a fun and never-ending way to work with your dog!

Feeding Your Dog with the Molecuball

2010-03-11T13:41:00.001-06:00

The "molecuball," also known as the Atomic Treat Ball, is a great toy for dog owners to have. Much the same as a Kong toy, the Atomic Treat Ball is a treat dispenser*. Just place small dog food pieces or treats into the hole of the molecuball. Not only does it keep your dog busy, it's mentally stimulating – the dog must work to extricate treats or food.

This treat dispenser is also a great tool for those dogs who gulp their food too quickly (gulping food causes air to be ingested into the stomach, which can lead to a condition known as "bloat"), since only a few kibbles are released at a time, and the dog is forced to eat more slowly.

Here a German shepherd demonstrates the use of the molecuball. Keep in mind not all dog food is small enough to fit through the hole; the kibble displayed in the video is California Natural Lamb & Rice Formula.

* However, due to the size and intended use, the molecuball shouldn't be used to freeze food into, since the opening is only for treats to come out; not for dogs' tongues to go in.

Closing a Drawer: Teaching Tricks via Clicker Training

2010-03-08T07:14:00.006-06:00

Here's a quick training session showing a snippet of how to go about teaching a dog to shut a drawer using operant conditioning. This is only a step in the entire process; attaining this level of commitment on a first try with a green dog would be out of the question.

While I had worked with Zada for a couple of minutes prior to turning on the camera, I hadn't worked with her on targeting – especially drawers – for quite some time, although we'd worked on it in the past. I still haven't put a cue to this behavior, as it's still not strong enough (in my opinion). She'll be ready for that soon.

Targeting can be done a couple of ways:

training the dog to touch an actual 'target' (such as a lid, piece of paper, etc.) and moving it to various objects you wish the dog to touch
free-shaping the dog's behavior by waiting for the dog to move towards the desired object (e.g., a drawer) and rewarding subsequent motion bringing the dog closer to the object

For working with Zada to close the drawer, I originally started out with a target, which I don't need anymore. In my opinion, teaching the dog to touch the target is an excellent way to work on tricks such as closing drawers and doors, turning light switches off/on, pushing wagons, etc. because the dog knows what to do – touch the target. From there it's a short step to free-shaping the dog to push.

Teach a Dog to Come When Called

2009-12-08T10:05:00.010-06:00

Probably the hardest cue for dog owners to train is the recall, or to come when called. Even a prolonged 'stay' isn't as hard to achieve as this holy grail of dog training behaviors. So, why is it so hard for us to teach our dogs to come to us?

Think in terms of reinforcement. What things are you, the dog owner, doing to reinforce your dog's behavior? Keep in mind reinforcement can work many ways, so the subtraction of something fun can reinforce, as well as the addition of something not so fun. Remember: it's not about what you, the dog trainer, thinks is reinforcing; it's what your dog actually perceives HOW she's being reinforced for WHAT she did that matters – especially when training the recall.

We're Actually Teaching Our Dogs NOT to Come
That's right, the majority of the time dog owners are most likely teaching their dogs NOT to come when called.

Take this scenario: dog owner takes dog to dog park. Upon entering dog park, the restricting leash is removed and Fido is allowed to run free, socialize, smell, chase...all the things a dog loves to do. It's a bit of doggy paradise. Then dog owner decides it's time to go home. Owner begins calling for dog to "come" and – normally – the recall probably occurs multiple times. Even if the dog knows explicitly what that cue means (most don't), what dog wants to head over to the owner, get the leash snapped on and be led AWAY from doggy heaven? Not many.

Other scenarios in which dog owners 'abuse' the come cue: calling the dog over to get a bath, to go to the vet, to get punished (you know who you are – the dog's doing something he's not supposed to, so you call him over and tell him he's a bad dog for doing whatever behavior you made him come over for), etc.

Teaching Your Dog to Come
Whether you get your dog as an 8-week-old pup or an adult, training him to 'come' to you on cue is an extremely important behavior which must be initiated immediately. No pup is too young nor any dog too old to 'learn new tricks,' so to speak. Any trainer who says puppies younger than 6 months can't learn have no clue what they're talking about: if a dog is old enough to see and walk, you can start training simple behaviors.

Keep in mind you need to train recall behavior – as any other – with a fun attitude, and the dog's 'paycheck' needs to be more rewarding than anything else going on at that moment. In fact, it's best to utilize the dog's absolute favorite reinforcer when training this behavior; best case scenario means only giving out that special treat when the dog comes to you.

To begin, set your dog – and yourself – up for success by attempting recall in a small, confined area. Inside the house would be great, since normally dogs are less tempted to go sniffing/chasing when inside the house. After your dog has mastered an acceptable level of 'come' – by your standards – throughout the house, you can move on to the outdoors, again in a controlled area. A dog trainer must always progress any training exercise in levels which set the dog up for success. Be careful not to put a word to the 'come' behavior too soon in the training process. Barking commands at a dog isn't going to work if the dog isn't aware of what the word means. First attain the behavior; once it's occurring consistently, then you can add a word as a cue.

But How Do I Train the Recall?
There are many ways to train your dog to come – as always, it first depends on what motivates your dog. As an example, I have a high chase-drive dog – a working-line German Shepherd – so I actually worked with her on recalls while playing fetch. She loves chasing and retrieving sticks (I began teaching her fetch immediately when I got her at 4 months of age) and she was consistent in bringing it back. So, as soon as she started heading back towards me on a retrieve, I'd clap excitedly. When she came and dropped the stick at my feet, of course I'd throw it again. Now, when I take her for a walk she can be off leash and every time I clap*, she comes running! She of course associates the hand-clapping with fetch/play/fun, so it's become a recall cue for me.

I also worked on training the same behavior – recall – with a whistle as a cue. Keep in mind you can have multiple cues for the same behavior; what you should never do is attempt to train multiple behaviors off of the same cue. I personally don't use the word "Come" as my cue because a hand-clap or whistle carries farther than my voice.

Important Concept to Remember When Training: Dogs Don't Generalize
A big mistake many dog owners make is believing their dogs come when called 100% of the time, and will do it anywhere, yet they've only practiced with their dog inside the yard. Then they head to the dog park and are completely baffled as to why the dog won't recall. At this point, the dog not only isn't used to performing the behavior amidst distractions, she's mostly trained to perform 'come' only in a certain place.

If you only work with the recall cue when your dog is in the yard, how will he know that 'come' doesn't mean "come to me here in this yard where there's a fence and not many other places to go"? You must work on training the 'come' cue with your dog in MANY different areas and situations. This guarantees 2 things:

your dog knows that 'come' means to come directly every time, in any place, and immediately;
the dog knows it must recall amidst any number of distractions.

Also, be sure never, EVER to ask the dog to 'come' when you think she might not. Sounds counter-intuitive, doesn't it? By this I mean if you're not ready to lay down a $100 bill on the table as a bet your dog will immediately come when you call her, don't call. If you call her and she ignores you, and/or if you have to repeat the cue several times before she does come (which isn't recommended), you're actually teaching her not to come when called. The way around this is to train it correctly – at first, marking the correct behavior and rewarding the dog for every occurrence; as the dog starts to understand what's required of her, then you start reinforcing only the strongest/fastest/best recalls; eventually the dog will only be reinforced intermittently; finally the dog performs the behavior on cue.

Remember, When Training Recalls:
The main points to remember when teaching a dog to come are:

understand what motivates your dog;
train at incremental levels which set the dog (and you!) up for success;
be consistent;
don't put a word (also known as a cue or command) to a behavior until the dog is offering it consistently and then properly associate that word with the desired behavior;
be patient and have fun!

*Keep in mind I taught recall with a dog who already retrieved 100% consistently; also I did it over and over in multiple places, situations, etc. Training a dog to come when called doesn't happen overnight.

Dog Training: Tracking Objects

2009-08-14T22:33:00.005-05:00

Dogs with high chase drive (also known as "prey drive" or "ball drive") can actually be very easy to train. K-9 police dogs are trained not with treats for reinforcement, but with special toys or games because they're so motivated to chase.

My American-bred, European-line German shepherd is no K-9, but she does have an excellent nose, a proclivity for tracking and a high chase drive. For exercise, mental stimulation and to work on her "tracking" skills, I often play fetch while making her hunt for her stick after I throw it.

While I merely use this as a simple exercise or training regimen, this aptitude can be used to train dogs to hone their tracking skills in order to sniff out various objects.

To use this method for training purposes, it's imperative to have a dog who's extremely motivated by chasing/tracking. As you can see, although Zada's tongue is hanging out, she's very intent upon her search for the stick. There have only been a handful of times in her 3 years when she has failed to bring back a stick I've thrown (whether in the woods or tall grass; harder to find than this evenly-mowed area). These times have occurred when she's extremely tired and therefore not as focused.

Free Shaping in Training Dogs

2009-06-03T15:05:00.003-05:00

What is Shaping?
'Shaping' is creating a behavior by reinforcing an animal for incremental steps which eventually 'shape' into the end goal. While it doesn't sound so hard, the catch is this: the entire premise of the method is based on the initiative of the animal; not the trainer. In other words, it's a patience game since you're waiting for the spontaneous actions of the dog.

Timing and consistency are critical in any type of training, but when using free shaping, the trainer's timing needs to be impeccable, since the full extent of the desired behavior probably won't happen right away. More than likely it needs to be built upon in small increments. In fact, you might have to start at a very basic level.

For example, let's say you want to teach your dog to bow. You might be waiting a LONG time before the dog offers that exact behavior, so instead you might have to start by reinforcing the dog when she merely looks at the ground. *click* Once the dog's consistently looking at the ground, you don't pay on the next occurrence. If it's truly a consistent behavior, the dog will go through an extinction burst - she'll try harder at the behavior because it's paid in the past - and might dip her head lower to the ground instead of merely looking down. *click* Once that's consistent, you stop paying and the dog will try harder. Then maybe the dog dips a shoulder - *click* and so on.

Many trainers don't have the patience for true free shaping, but it's a fun way for your dog to be not only learning but initiating new behaviors. Another great way to teach a dog to be more creative – thus offering a trainer more behaviors – is to play the 101 Things To Do With a Box game.

Now, some trainers might understand shaping is a powerful training tool but don't have the patience or length of time to wait for the dog to offer spontaneous behaviors. In many cases, trainers will resort to using a lure to get the dog to perform the behavior instead. While you can certainly train a dog this way, luring isn't free shaping, rather, just 'shaping.' What happens with luring is the dog relies on the lure to 'tell' him what to do. If you decide to use luring when training new behaviors, it's important to properly phase out the lure so the dog learns not to depend on help all the time to perform the behavior. This type of training can definitely work, but free shaping creates a much more creative dog who will try things on his own, versus having to always be lured into new behaviors.

Why Use a Clicker in Free Shaping?
Clicker training is basically a junk term for marker-based training. Marking a behavior with a sound is an extremely effective method of teaching new behaviors because the subject - be it dog, dolphin, rat, human - knows the exact moment when he performs a desired behavior. Also, by introducing a (previously) neutral sound into the training process the subject learns to work for the SOUND; not the reward. This is important, since a common complaint of dog owners is, "my dog only does tricks when I have a bunch of treats in my hand!" These people don't understand clicker training or the principles behind operant conditioning.

If a marker sound isn't utilized in free shaping, the dog won't learn very quickly. Why? Because he won't know if the desired behavior occurred when the trainer gave the treat, just before the treat was thrown, etc. With a clear, short marker at the instant the behavior is offered, the dog will understand instantly what he did correctly. Of course, before starting to free shape, the trainer must be sure the dog understands the clicker's meaning. This can be done by charging the clicker before beginning training.

Why can't I just use a short word instead of a clicker?
Often trainers will resort to a short, upbeat word – such as "Yes!" or "Good!" – instead of a clicker. This can work when free shaping, but it's best to use a clicker, since it's a consistent sound; there is no voice inflection, no volume change. That being said, it's great to have a dog accustomed to the sounds of both the clicker and the trainer's voice, since there will be times when you've forgotten your clicker or weren't planning on a training session. However, studies have shown there is a much quicker learning time when using a clicker vs. a voice as a marker.

With some practice, patience and good timing, you can teach your dog anything with free shaping – including teaching a dog fun tricks. After all, how else do zoo trainers achieve desired behaviors with elephants, birds, dolphins, etc?

Reinforcement & Punishment in Operant Conditioning

2009-06-03T08:56:00.000-05:00

In this article I'm discussing reinforcement and punishment as it relates to the training method of operant conditioning. To achieve a dog which willingly wants to work with the trainer, we tend to think only 'positive' methods work the best, but keep in mind when dealing with this type of training positive means the addition of a stimulus; negative stands for the subtraction of a stimulus.

In regards to the tools available in operant conditioning, there can be a total of four contexts:

Positive Reinforcement is the addition of a favorable stimulus after a desired behavior has occurred. E.g., a treat or toy is presented for good behavior.

Negative Reinforcement is the subtraction of an undesirable stimulus after desired behavior has occurred. E.g., a dog on leash acts calmly - or displays some other form of obedience - and the owner takes the leash off. A leash itself is a negative reinforcer since it keeps the dog from moving freely where he wants to go.

Positive Punishment is the addition of an undesirable stimulus at the onset of undesirable behavior. E.g., a shock collar or electric fence.

Negative Punishment is the removal of a desired stimulus after undesirable behavior has occurred. E.g., a family friend comes to visit and upon entering the house begins petting the dog, but the dog becomes too excited so the friend ceases giving attention to the dog until she settles.

While the most 'upbeat' form discussed here is positive reinforcement, the other methods have their place, too. The only form of training I don't condone is positive punishment. It's a "quick fix" which actually teaches a dog to become fearful and untrusting, since he's not sure when he'll get shocked, hit or yelled at next. Instead of focusing on what a dog is doing "wrong," why not work with him to encourage what he's doing right?

Motivation & Positive Reinforcement while Training

2009-05-17T21:08:00.000-05:00

An example of using positive reinforcement when training my German shepherd. Since she's obsessed with fetching sticks, I use the act of retrieving the stick as reinforcement for performing cues. Of course, she already knows the 'down' cue, in order to teach her something I'd obviously work in small increments.

Premack’s Principle

2009-01-08T15:16:00.001-06:00

What is the Premack Principle, Anyway?
If you’re at all interested in behavior modification, you’ve heard of David Premack. He is a psychologist who came up with the relationship between desirable and undesirable behaviors.

Desirable – or high probability – behaviors are those behaviors which the animal wishes to do when given the choice. Undesirable – or low probability – behaviors are those behaviors which, given the choice, the animal seldom, if ever, does.

Premack’s Principle states an animal will perform an undesired behavior in order to engage in a desirable behavior. When a high probability behavior is contingent upon the performance of a low probability behavior, the outcome is the increased frequency of the low probability behavior.

While this might sound hard to enforce, consider the mother who tells her child, “you aren’t allowed to go outside and play until you clean your room.” Cleaning her room is not a preferred behavior for the child, yet since she is extremely motivated to play outside, she will perform the low probability behavior for her “reward”: the high probability, or preferred, behavior.

Training Dogs Using Premack’s Theory
In relation to dog training, Premack’s Principle tells us we can use our dog’s most desired activities as reinforcers for good behavior in operant conditioning. Often, trainers will become frustrated when their dogs lose interest during a training session because they’d rather sniff the floor, play with another dog, chew their favorite toy, etc.

That’s okay! You can use these tendencies to achieve the behavior you want. For example, if your dog would rather fetch a ball, you can use it as a reinforcer during training. If you’re working on “sit” with your dog, wait until she sits, then release her as you’re throwing the ball. Of course, this works best with dogs who are so motivated to play fetch they always bring the ball (or stick, favorite toy, etc.) back to you every time! Mostly, with dogs that enjoy this activity, they understand the principle: I chase the ball, bring it back and the human throws it so I can chase it again!

Or, if your dog would rather sniff around than receive some other form of treat during a training session, wait until your dog performs the behavior you wish, and then let him sniff as his reward! After a few seconds of sniff-time, calmly say “let’s go,” or get your dog’s attention back on you and start over.

I know a dog trainer who used her male dog's extreme desire to mark everything as reinforcement. She taught him to heel at perfect attention merely by waiting for him to perform desired behavior and then rewarding him with allowing him to scent mark. Voilà! Premack's Principle at work.

Premack theory works hand in hand with intermittent reinforcement, allowing you to wean your dog away from “treats” as rewards. Not only that, it allows you to utilize your everyday environment to train your dog. An important thing to always keep in mind is "what motivates my dog the most right now?" If the Premack Principle is used correctly, you’ll quickly have a dog which is always looking for ways to “have fun” by offering you obedient behavior!

Arguments Against “Clicker Training”

2009-01-08T15:00:00.000-06:00

Unfortunately, most clicker trainers teach their students to treat their dog each and every time a behavior occurs, or they don’t properly outline how to reinforce intermittently, thus moving away from reinforcing each occurrence. This is the biggest argument against clicker training: people don’t want a dog dependent on receiving treats in order to be obedient. Tied in with that argument is a trainer who doesn’t want to "carry treats around" all the time. They’ll argue, “why does the dog needs a treat every time?”

When trainers use operant conditioning – in which clicker training is based – they not only wean their dogs off of “treats” by using intermittent reinforcement, they also substitute other forms of reinforcers. This means you don’t have to – and actually shouldn’t – carry treats or toys with you wherever you and your dog go.

Another argument against clicker training: the dog’s behavior is dependent on the presence – or absence – of treats. While it’s hard to use much other than dog treats in an actual dog class setting, many clicker trainers fail to teach their students the many types of positive reinforcers, and how to use these other forms of motivation to modify dog behavior outside of the classroom. Also, done correctly, operant conditioning does the opposite of training the dog to only work when "treats" are present!

For example, simply telling your dog “Good dog!” can be reinforcement. Whether or not it's a strong enough reinforcement for your dog depends on if you've correctly conditioned the dog. Also, behaviors themselves can be reinforcing. According to Premack’s Principle, a dog will perform a less desirable behavior in order to be able to perform the more desirable behavior. The dog who is excited to enter the dog park, for instance, must sit calmly and look her trainer in the eyes in order to be able to advance into the park. Although the dog is extremely motivated to play with other dogs, she knows she must offer the obedient behavior (sitting with attention) in order to “earn” the “treat” of entering the dog park.

This is not to say that a trainer shouldn’t use clicker training! Rather, when researching trainers and dog classes to begin on your positive reinforcement journey, be sure to do your homework and find a reputable establishment which utilizes operant conditioning methods correctly. This means you probably should not attend the PetCo/PetSmart dog classes, since the majority of the time these trainers don’t utilize clicker training methods properly.

Intermittent Reinforcement

2009-01-08T14:52:00.000-06:00

Positive reinforcement (a common slang term for operant conditioning) is the basis of clicker training. Unfortunately, not all clicker trainers understand the use of reinforcers, namely, when to give them to the dog and when NOT to give them.

Reinforcement Examples
First of all, the trainer needs to evaluate the dog to find out what most motivates him. While dog treats are the most commonly used reinforcer, not all dogs respond the same way to treats. Often dogs won’t respond as well to commercial dog treats as actual meat, so be sure to try various types of food: roast beef, cooked hamburger, hot dogs, salmon, etc.

Of course, the dog might not be as interested in food as she is in playing – fetch or tug-of-war, for example. Anything the dog will work hard for is a reinforcer, and can be used in training to modify behavior. There are many motivators in a dog's life, and all dogs are different, so it's best to evaluate each dog for a list of reinforcers.

Once you’ve conditioned the dog to the meaning of the clicker (by pairing the "click" with a "treat"), you can begin modifying his behavior. The whole premise of clicker training is to create a dog who offers behaviors to the trainer, rather than being forced into them – the dog is the one who is “empowered” to make decisions and wants to work with his human.

Intermittent Reinforcement: Reinforcing Only the Best Behaviors
In order to train correctly and have an obedient dog, a trainer must utilize reinforcement correctly. When the dog is first learning a behavior – “sit,” for example – every instance of the correct behavior (the dog sits down completely) is “treated,” no matter how slowly or sloppily she does it. However, after the behavior is consistently occurring, the trainer needs to be sure only to reinforce the top 80% of the behavior. I.e., those times the dog best completes the behavior, and quickly.

It's also important to note that dog trainers should only work on one behavior at a time. If you're working with your dog on "sit," then work only on that cue for a session. Take a break before moving onto any other cues. This speeds the learning process for the dog.

What Does Constant Reinforcement Actually Teach?
By reinforcing your dog for only her best performances ensures the dog learns HOW you want the behavior; not just that you want any form of it. Dogs which are constantly treated for a behavior actually don’t learn to perform the behavior well. In fact, these dogs for the most part don’t even offer the behavior fully or consistently. For example, with a “sit,” the dog might only crouch down so her haunches are near the ground; not on them. With a “down” cue the dog’s elbows might not even touch the ground. Even if the dog downs correctly, she might take her time doing it.

Why does the dog not perform the cue consistently or to the full completion? Because the dog gets paid every single time the behavior occurs, regardless of the precision or timing. (In real-life terms, think of someone who rides the bus to work. Whether they get there early, on-time, late, the bus waits for them and takes them where they need to go. There's no motivation for getting to the bus-stop on time because the person knows the bus will still be there. If, however, the bus kept its schedule this person would begin arriving on time to get a ride.)

By reinforcing only the dog’s best behaviors, you’re telling the dog, “if you don’t work hard enough, you don’t get paid.” Because you’ve done your research and know which reinforcers your dog finds most appealing, the dog WILL work harder if he doesn’t get paid for something. After the dog is consistently giving you his best behavior, then you begin decreasing the reinforcement – or intermittently reinforcing – for the behavior. There shouldn’t be a schedule to the reinforcement, that is, the dog shouldn’t know that every 3rd or 5th occurrence of the behavior earns him a “treat.”

Because the dog never knows when he's going to be reinforced, he'll consistently offer the correct behavior. This is where many clicker trainers fail to understand the true significance of operant conditioning. They don't understand how to get the behavior happening consistently, then move from consistent reinforcement to intermittent by only rewarding the dog's best behaviors, and they also don't understand the true meaning of reinforcers.

There are many trainers who disregard clicker training because of this very misunderstanding of the true nature of the training methods.

Positive Reinforcement

2009-01-08T11:11:00.000-06:00

Choosing a Positive Reinforcer
When using operant conditioning or clicker training with dogs, the trainer first needs to evaluate the dog to find out what he wants most. Anything a dog will work to achieve can be considered a reinforcer. Two things to keep in mind: reinforcers are different for each dog; what WE as trainers think of as 'rewards' for the dog might not be reinforcers*. What motivates one dog might not be important to another. Some dogs are extremely motivated by food, while others prefer play and toys; some dogs merely want attention from their trainer. There are many different types of reinforcement; you must choose the one which is best for your dog.

Main Types of Reinforcement for Dogs
Food: When you’re working with a food-motivated dog, it’s best to ensure you’re using food which the dog cannot resist. While you can certainly train the dog at feeding time – thus using the dog’s actual meal for reinforcement – this won’t have as strong an effect at any other time.

Use the smallest piece of food your dog will work towards; be sure to have soft, quickly-chewable pieces versus big, crunchy treats. The quicker the dog can consume the treat, the quicker he’ll turn his attention back to you instead of taking his time hunting around for the crumbs of the one you just gave him.

If your dog doesn’t seem interested in commercial dog treats, you can try cooked meat, such as hamburger, roast beef, etc. Don’t worry about the dog beginning to beg for “human” food, since the only time this food is used is when training. A dog learns to beg for food only when this behavior is reinforced!

Within the food category, you'll find your dog will have favorites that he'll work for no matter what - whether he's just eaten or he's chewing on a favorite toy, etc - these are your "high-reward" reinforcers, and should be utilized when you're training for very important cues. An example would be the recall, or "come!" cue. Many dog trainers believe this to be one of the most important cues to teach a dog; if it is for you, then you should reward the behavior with an extremely high "paycheck"!

Play/Toys: Many highly energetic, prey-drive dogs actually prefer this method of reinforcement over treats. This can be anything from the dog’s favorite toy to playing tug-of-war, fetch, or any other game the dog loves to play. The trick here is to keep the play sessions very short – no more than 30 seconds – so you leave the dog wanting more. Also, it keeps both of you on task. Again, keep in mind that certain games or toys will motivate your dog more than others.

Attention/Touch: Some dogs crave attention over anything else and a trainer can certainly use this as reinforcement. Petting, scratching, or any other form of attention the dog loves can be used as reinforcers. Again, the key is to keep these sessions short when using them for training. Also, it's good to know in which places your dog really likes to be scratched or petted, versus the places where it's just simple enjoyment. For example, a dog might like getting her belly rubbed, but she absolutely loves having her ears scratched. Keep these things in mind when you're reinforcing for behaviors...the bigger the "duty," the bigger the reinforcement should be.

Similar to petting or scratching, some dogs will work for merely a “Good dog!” or other form of verbal praise. When clicker training or using any other form of positive reinforcement training, it’s important to understand eventually the trainer needs to move away from “treating” the dog every time – this is called intermittent reinforcement – and instead move towards more verbal praise with intermittent reinforcers (such as praise, play, food, etc.).

Territory: Last, but certainly not least, is the use of space as a reinforcer for your dog. Let's look at an example to explain this: think of the puppy who constantly pulls on the leash to get somewhere else. A good dog trainer can actually use this behavior to his/her advantage in order to form new behaviors. Standing quietly and calmly, the trainer waits until the split second in which the pup lets some slack creep into the leash - CLICK! - and reinforce this non-pulling behavior. After a few repetitions of receiving payment for not pulling, the puppy will figure out "if I don't pull, I get rewarded!" While you'd want to start in small enough increments - and with the least amount of distraction - in order to give your puppy a chance to succeed, using space and territory within operant conditioning will work if the trainer is consistent and has good timing.

Reinforcers Are NOT Created Equal
Another important note to make is that not all reinforcers hold the same motivational factor all the time for a dog. For example, if a dog is highly food motivated but has just eaten, she probably won’t work as hard to obtain food – even if it’s her favorite treat you’re using. Also, motivation to work for reinforcement can be affected by the presence of another reinforcer. A dog who will work for both food and play will default to one or the other when both are present. A dog with high prey-drive, for example, will often ignore food in preference of their favorite game.

No matter which reinforcers work best for your dog, keep in mind the proper way to train – to get the best, longest-lasting results – is not to treat for every single behavior all the time. Even when using intermittent reinforcement, you don’t want your dog to know there’s any type of schedule to the reinforcement.

Last, a trainer should always be thinking outside the dog training box. The aforementioned “popular” methods of positive reinforcement are effective, but don’t forget the Premack Principle – situations and the environment can be used as reinforcers, too!

*Think of a 'reinforcer' as something the DOG wishes to obtain/is motivated to work for, while a 'reward' is what the TRAINER thinks the dog wants. Seems confusing, doesn't it? If a trainer has done her homework, she knows the reinforcers her dog most enjoys, and when to use them, while a trainer who hasn't evaluated the dog's motivational factors will think "my dog will work for these" when in fact, the dog might not want to!

Clicker Training Dogs

2009-01-01T08:29:00.000-06:00

The past 10 years or so has seen a dramatic increase in a method of dog training called clicker training. "Clicker training" is actually jargon for the lesser-known scientific terminology, operant conditioning. While the concept certainly isn't new - it was developed under B.F. Skinner's tutelage as early as World War II - it seems to have swept the dog training world as a highly effective training method to achieve long-term effects.

Operant Conditioning
In operant conditioning, consequences are used to modify the frequency of behaviors. Generally speaking, animals will continue performing a behavior which results in a “positive” outcome, and discontinue behaviors which result in either no consequence or a “negative” outcome. In this article, "positive" and "negative" refer to the emotional connotation. In clicker training, trainers use positive reinforcement (the addition of a reinforcer) to get the dog to repeat desired behaviors as well as decrease undesired behaviors.

In order to get the dog repeating a behavior, she must know exactly which behavior earned the reinforcement. Through the use of a clicker, the trainer can “tell” the dog the instant a desired behavior occurs (this is called marking the behavior). This tool is used because of its sharp, quick sound – the click – which is much more precise than the trainer’s voice. It takes a lot longer to say “Good boy!” than it does to simply click. Once the dog understands the clicker signifies she’s done something good, the trainer can begin shaping behaviors.

Conditioning a Dog to the Clicker
The first step in beginning this training is conditioning the dog to the meaning of the clicker. To start, the trainer must find a motivator for the dog – something this specific dog greatly wants. The most popular form of reinforcement is food in the form of dog treats since all dogs, at some point, are food motivated. If your dog isn’t particularly interested in treats, there are many different positive reinforcers you can use. The important thing is to find what motivates your dog at that moment.

With the dog on leash or in a small space (in order to minimize distractions and the dog’s ability to leave), the trainer clicks the clicker, pauses, then “treats” the dog, regardless of what he's doing. This step is repeated several times in a row in order to form the association between the clicker and the positive reinforcement. At this point, the dog is simply learning that after he hears a click, he will receive a reward.

Getting Started Clicker Training
Once the association between clicker and positive reinforcement is made, you can get started with the actual training. At this point, the dog knows that she needs to hear a click in order to receive the reinforcement. Since she's still very new at this, start with something simple so she can succeed. You can begin with waiting until the dog looks away, and when she turns back and makes eye contact (as she eventually will), click, pause and then treat her. Repeat this step - dog looks away; dog makes eye contact, CLICK, pause, treat - until the dog is consistently looking at you. This teaches eye contact and attention but also ensures the dog learns the ultimate goal is NOT the treat; rather, working for the click itself.

When the dog is consistently making eye contact, start lengthening the amount of time he needs to hold your gaze before clicking. Count to 2 seconds, the next time wait 5 seconds, etc. This teaches the dog he needs to HOLD eye contact. Whatever you've read or heard on the Dog Whisperer about humans needing to "win the staring contest" doesn't apply here. Wouldn't you rather have a dog eagerly looking into your eyes for the next cue, rather than a dog who is afraid to hold eye contact?

Leave Your Dog Wanting More Training
For every training session, it’s best to leave the dog wanting more, rather than working with the dog until she gets bored with the training. In the beginning, 5-minute sessions are best. Work with the dog, then give a “release” word and take a break to pet or scratch the dog. When you’re ready to start back in, merely stand still and wait until the dog makes eye contact again, or you can call the dog’s name to get her attention. When you're done with the training session, make sure to end on a positive note.

Remember, this is a game and should be treated as such – it’s fun but you and your dog are learning at the same time!

Classical Conditioning

2008-12-31T18:45:00.000-06:00

Many types of dog training methods overlap or work in conjunction with one another. And while you might understand the overall concept, it's important to know each type of training and how it works in order to better understand and utilize them. In this article I describe classical condotioning, also known as Pavlovian conditioning.

Pavlov Stumbles on Classical Conditioning
Many of us know who Ivan Pavlov was, and that he is best known for conditioning dogs to salivate at the ringing of a bell. What many people don't know is his original experiment with the dogs had nothing to do with behavior; rather he was testing their saliva and how its chemistry changed in the presence of food.

In his testing, he noticed the dogs began salivating at the sight of the lab assistants (who gave them food) before any food was actually present.

What he'd inadvertently done was teach the dogs that lab assistants = food. A dog's natural, reflexive response to the sight of food is salivation, therefore upon seeing the lab assistants the dogs would salivate in anticipation of the food they knew would follow.

Pavlov also used bells to call the dogs to their food, thus resulting in the conditioned response (salivation) to a previously neutral stimulus (the bell).

What is Classical Conditioning?
Classical Conditioning is the associative linking of stimuli which trigger reflexive responses to previously neutral stimuli which did not elicit the reflexive response. This differs from operant conditioning in that it deals with innate responses; not behaviors.

Unconditioned Stimulus (US): consistently triggers a reflexive (unconditioned) response
Unconditioned Response (UR): reflexive response triggered by an unconditioned stimulus
Conditioned Stimulus (CS): a neutral stimulus which produces no reflexive response
Conditioned Response (CR): the reflexive response (previously unconditioned) triggered by a conditioned stimulus

Specifically, this type of associative learning pairs CS with US in order to trigger the reflexive response (which therefore becomes conditioned) from the CS. Let's look at an example using Pavlov's dogs and the bell.

Pavlov rang a bell to call the dogs to dinner. Of course he saw that the presentation of food (US) stimulated the dogs into salivating (UR). This response is reflexive, or involuntary, and was a result of the dog's body preparing to receive food.

Then he began to notice that whenever he rang the bell (CS) the dogs would salivate (CS). Because of the constant pairing of the bell (previously a neutral stimulus) with the food (an unconditioned stimulus), the dogs learned to associate the two as equal.

VISUAL EXAMPLE:

Food (US) --------------------> Salivation (UR)

After repeated pairing of Bell & Food:

Bell (CS) -------------------> Salivation (UR becomes CR)

So, how can you utilize classical conditioning as a training tool for dogs since it doesn't deal with behaviors, only reflexive responses?

Classical Conditioning to Train Dogs

2008-12-23T15:02:00.000-06:00

How Do I Use Classical Conditioning to Train My Dog?

Clicker Training
Trainers who use clicker training are actually using classical conditioning. When a trainer wishes to start clicker training a dog, first the dog needs to be taught the significance of the clicker. The clicker actually marks the moment of desired behavior. In order to create the association in the dog's mind, the trainer begins by clicking and then treating the dog ("treating" can be food, play, or anything else the dog is motivated to have). This is repeated until the dog learns the association between clicker and the positive outcome.

Counterconditioning
I've also read several accounts that mention reversal of reflexive behaviors can be trained utilizing classical conditioning. This involves changing something the dog views as "negative" and turning it into a "positive." An example would be a dog which is afraid of loud noises, such as fireworks. In this case, the trainer would start with the dog far removed from the firecrackers but the dog would still be able to barely hear them. At the same time the noise starts the trainer begins feeding the dog his favorite treat. The idea is to gradually wean the dog away from his fearful reaction to fireworks by associating their loud noises with something the dog thinks of as positive. This is called counterconditioning.

Desensitization
This is related to counterconditioning and involves repeatedly subjecting the dog to a stimulus until they become desensitized to it. By counterconditioning - creating a positive emotion from a previously negative one - the trainer is actually desensitizing the dog to it at the same time.

These instances might seem counterintuitive to the "standard" definition of classical conditioning. To recap, the standard definition of this training method states that you associate a previously neutral stimulus (which elicits no emotional/reflexive reaction) with a stimulus of some significance (which elicits an emotional/reflexive reaction).

In other words, Pavlov consistently rang the bell to call his dogs to eat; therefore the dogs associated the ringing of the bell (previously a neutral stimulus) with food. Upon hearing the bell, the dogs would then salivate (a natural, reflexive response to food).

All of the aforementioned instances are, indeed, examples of classical conditioning. There are many trainers who argue that classical conditioning only deals with innate, reflexive actions - i.e., actions over which you have no control - such as an eye blinking in response to air being blown into it.

As it turns out, classical conditioning is merely the association of stimuli. A stimulus, of course, is "An agent, action, or condition that elicits or accelerates a physiological or psychological activity or response." A "response" in this case can actually signify "emotion," too. Another way to look at it is to compare this method with operant conditioning.

In operant conditioning, the consequence - either positive or negative - is based on the dog's behavior. In classical conditioning, the dog's behavior has no bearing on the outcome.

Using Operant Conditioning for Dog Training

2008-12-23T11:10:00.001-06:00

There are numerous methods utilized today for dog training - but which one(s) should you use to train your own canine?

What is Operant Conditioning?
Operant conditioning is the modification of behavior through the use of consequences (reinforcers and punishers). Although there are arguments against this, operant conditioning differs from classical conditioning in that it deals with changing operant behavior (or 'voluntary' behavior) versus reflexive behavior ('involuntary' behavior). That being said, whenever you're dealing with changing behaviors, operant and classical conditioning can work hand-in-hand.

Operant conditioning has two main tools for modifying behavior - reinforcement and punishment. Reinforcers increase behavior, while punishers decrease a behavior. These operate in two contexts - positive and negative. In this case, positive refers to addition; negative refers to subtraction.

B.F. Skinner was the "Pavlov" of operant conditioning, and actually outlined a third tool - extinction - which is the lack of any consequence. Though it might seem like doing nothing couldn't be an effective training method, it can actually produce results when used correctly.

Positive Reinforcement
An important thing to keep in mind when considering which of these tools to utilize is the long-term effects each can have on your dog. Positive reinforcement is - in my opinion - the strongest teaching tool - not only does it focus on increasing positive behavior; it teaches the dog to want to work with his owner and continue learning and trying.

The basic premise of positive reinforcement is: dog performs behavior, dog gets rewarded. The dog learns - at first - "every time I do this, I get THIS." After a desired behavior is consistently occurring, then the trainer will begin to decrease payment of the behavior, only focusing on the dog's best performances. This encourages the dog to try his best each and every time, since he only gets paid for his best endeavors.

Once a behavior is learned, the dog is only paid intermittently. He's not quite sure when he'll get paid, so once again, he is going to offer his best effort all the time. This form of intermittent reinforcement is often where most trainers who teach clicker training fail to understand the implications of operant conditioning. They teach their trainers to use treats and pay their dog for every single occurrence of behavior. This actually creates a dog who doesn't perform very well; since he's never pushed to give his best, he gets treated regardless of performance and often these dogs are lazy, don't perform behaviors on cue and tend to get lackadaisical about working with their trainers.

Negative Punishment
Negative punishment is also a strong tool to decrease unwanted behavior, since this method focuses on the removal of a desired reward when an unwanted behavior occurs. Trained consistently, the dog will learn whenever she offers a certain behavior, she loses something she's very motivated to have - i.e., a treat, a toy, another behavior (such as going outside, going for a walk, etc.). Other examples would be a dog gets overly excited while being petted, so the person ignores the dog until she settles and then continues petting; or a very a high prey-drive dog not being allowed to play fetch unless she displays the correct behavior. Fetch in this case is not only a game; it can be a very strong teaching tool. Of course, all dogs are different and are motivated - at different times - by different things. You need to choose the best motivator for your own dog in order to truly see results.

Negative Reinforcement
While the concept of training through negative reinforcement may seem counter-intuitive to positive methods, it can actually be a strong tool. Keep in mind 'negative' in this sense doesn't carry an emotional connotation. Negative reinforcement is the increase in desired behavior caused by the removal of an unwanted stimulus.

An example of negative reinforcement would be teaching a dog to respond to touch. If you place your hand on your dog's side and push, eventually he'll move away from the pressure. You're not hurting the dog, but pressure can actually be an adverse stimulus. When the dog moves away, you remove the pressure. This is how horses are trained to move while being ridden - it's called 'leg aiding' and applies the very theory of negatively reinforcing the horse for moving away from a rider's leg when pressure is applied.

Positive Punishment
There are many reasons I don't utilize this type of training with dogs - mainly because with this method you're merely telling the dog "don't do that!" Instead of empowering her with what she should or could be doing, you're focusing on one thing she shouldn't be doing.

In other words, dogs are always doing something, and if you use this method of training, you won't get very far, since it's a major trial-and-error to teach them the things you don't want them to do. That is, the communication focuses on an undesired stimulus (to the dog) such as a shock collar, a yell, even hitting the dog when she offers an undesired behavior (to the human). Even if you use positive punishment in conjunction with the other methods, another consequence from using this type of training occurs: your dog learns to be afraid to try new behaviors. This is because (through intermittent reinforcement) she doesn't know when she'll receive a shock (or other adverse stimulus) for a new behavior.

What you have, in effect, is a dog who doesn't entirely trust you - or herself.

Extinction
Extinction is the lack of consequence after a behavior. This can be utilized by a trainer to decrease behaviors. When a behavior consistently produces no consequence, that behavior will occur with less and less frequency. Keep in mind the dog has to be accustomed to the 'rule': desired behavior results in reward.

However, you might have heard of an "extinction burst." This refers to the dog taking more action in order to gain the desired consequence. For example, when free shaping a dog, you'd start by paying the slightest increments, and once the dog is offering the first increment consistently, you don't pay him the next time. The dog knows this behavior has paid before, so what he'll do is try harder to gain the consequence.

Of course, as mentioned before, if the dog never gets paid for the behavior, he will slowly stop offering the behavior, since there is no gain in performing it.

Remember, whichever method you decide to use, don't forget to have fun!

Keep Your Dog Busy with a Kong

2008-12-17T08:54:00.002-06:00

If you have a high energy dog, you're on the constant lookout for "busy" activities to keep your pooch occupied. One of the best inventions in the history of dog toys is the rubber Kong. Not only is it virtually indestructible (even for extreme chewers), it's also ideal for keeping your dog busy.

Kongs come in a variety of types, and while all of these toys are excellent in durability, the one we're highlighting here is the classic Kong toy for dogs. This comes in various sizes, as well as models for extreme chewers, puppies and senior dogs.

While you can certainly give a Kong to a dog to play fetch or merely chew on, the true capabilities of this rubber toy are best utilized with treats.

All dogs have "food drive" – meaning all dogs eat, and at some point are food motivated – plus they also have the need to "work," or keep themselves busy. This means for those dogs left home during the day the hours draw out and they might find amusement in chewing on items they're not supposed to. Of course, exercising your dog properly is always the first and foremost "remedy." But, even with abundant exercise, some dogs still need a lot of mental stimulation.

Enter the Kong. Before you leave for the day, stuff your dog's Kong with treats - hard ones work well since they're harder to extricate than softer varieties. Your dog will have to work with his tongue and teeth in order to get all the treats out, which can take quite a long time. The mental stimulation factor is when the dog learns to drop the Kong in order to make treats fall out – it's also fun to see the "a-ha" moment when Fido realizes dropping it down the stairs works well!

An even better way to keep your dog occupied is to use peanut butter and freeze the Kong. This is a safe and effective way to keep your dog occupied - sometimes for hours!

Another great treat dispenser is the molecuball. While you shouldn't ever freeze food in this toy, it's excellent for dispensing small treats or dog food slowly, so can be used to feed a dog – either to keep it busy or to help with dogs who wolf their food too quickly.

Frozen Kongs

2008-12-16T19:28:00.002-06:00

How many times have we felt guilty leaving our dogs home alone all day while we're at work? Conversely, how often have you come home to a house that's been "re-arranged," chewed or destroyed by your frustrated, energetic dog?

While rigorous exercise should always be the first thing you try to keep your dog out of trouble – the old adage "a tired dog is a good dog" is absolutely true! – there are other things you can try to keep your dog busy.

The Kong is a great toy for this. Its tough rubber make-up makes it virtually indestructible (even for extreme chewers), and depending on the model, it can keep your dog busy for hours. There are also other durable, rubber toys – such as the Squirrel Dude Rubber Chew Toy, Chompion Dumbbell, Atomic Treat Ball and Premier Chuckle from Busy Buddy – which are great for stuffing with treats.

You can stuff the Kong with treats to give your dog something to do, or you can take it one step further and freeze treats inside of it for hours of play. The Kong Company does sell freeze-able treats, but you can use 'human' foods to freeze for your pet, as well. Of course, before giving anything to your dog outside of his natural diet, you should consult your veterinarian.

Some foods that work well for freezing inside the Kong are:

Peanut butter
Cheese (either softened or cottage cheese)
Oatmeal
Broth (chicken, beef, etc.)
Honey
Canned dog food
Yogurt
Applesauce
There are many, many more – get creative! But remember, check with your vet first.

When preparing a Kong for your dog, you can simply fill the Kong with whichever substance you choose, or you can add other treats in amidst the filling (dog treats, as well as veggies or fruit). Of course, this is easiest with the more solid food listed above. Keep in mind any treat dispenser – not necessarily from the Kong Company – can be used for this purpose, but if they're not made specifically to allow a dog's tongue inside, they might keep your dog busy but the dog might not be able to access all of the food. This will result in a very smelly treat and – sometimes – a very frustrated dog!

To freeze a Kong, fill the Kong to the top using a butter knife for the "solid" foods (to reach down into the Kong). Put the Kong in a baggie and place in the freezer. You'll want to allow a couple hours for the cheese, peanut butter, or other semi-solid food to fully freeze.

For the liquid-type foods, you can plug the bottom, smaller hole in the Kong with a soft treat (or something else that's tasty, easily squashed yet solid), place the Kong with large hole facing up in a glass or bowl, and fill to the top with broth, honey or any other liquid.

Carefully place in the freezer, and again leave it in there for a couple hours to ensure it's all frozen through.

You can also get a Kong large enough to furnish your dog's kibble meal, and freeze the entire amount of dry dog food inside the Kong with broth, peanut butter or whichever substance you choose. Keep in mind, the added calories from the frozen substance will add to your dog's meal, so you can probably decrease the amount of dog food. This will ensure your dog not only gets fed; she'll keep busy while eating.

Another idea for making your dog work for food – if you don't have time or don't need to use a frozen Kong – is to use a Molecuball (also known as the Atomic Treat Ball). This isn't recommended for freezing liquids, as the hole is much too small to allow a dog's tongue, but it's great for dispensing dog food or small treats slowly. It also forces the dog to work for his food, as the only way the dog treats or food dispenses is if the dog moves the molecule with his nose or paws.

The bottom line is: anything that helps in making your dog a tired dog also makes her a good dog!

Potty Training With Puppy Pads

2008-12-09T12:11:00.000-06:00

Using Puppy Pads / Newspapers when Potty Training
While this method of potty training might work best in an apartment setting - to a puppy, those long hallways and stairwells are a long time to hold it! - it can have repercussions. Puppies who are potty trained this way are in essence trained to urinate and defecate in the house. House training can also take longer with this method, as the clear lines of "yes, you can potty here" and "no, don't potty here" are blurred. To a puppy, inside is inside - they won't understand the difference at first.

Puppy pads are most likely preferable to use instead of newspapers, as they are specifically engineered for this purpose. They come in all kinds:

scented with pheromones (and/or cut grass)
wetness protection (absorbency)
leak protection
odor control
reusable
disposable

Newspapers, on the other hand, are free...but, beware, they're not very absorbent.

To use this housebreaking technique, place the pad or newspapers in a designated area. Whenever your puppy changes his activity (wakes up, starts to play, finishes eating, etc.), pick him up and walk him over to the puppy pad and place him on it. If he moves off the pad, gently place him back on it. Be sure to praise him mightily when he does do his deed!

When puppy starts getting the hang of using the pad for going potty, it's time to start moving it closer to the door. The goal is to eventually get the dog to get used to going outdoors - at first on a pad, but then eventually you would wean them off the pads (inside or outside) altogether.

Crate Training a Puppy

2008-12-09T11:32:00.000-06:00

Using a Crate to Potty Train Your Pup
The methods for potty training a puppy are numerous, but a very popular way to housebreak your puppy is to crate train him. This method uses the principle that dogs do not like to lie in their own mess. This isn’t a foolproof method, however, as sick dogs will evacuate their bowels/stomachs regardless of where they are, and if left alone too long, small puppies physically can't hold it. But of course, generally speaking, dogs do not like to urinate/defecate in the area in which they sleep.

Crate training is a good method for potty training when you're at work, or busy elsewhere in the house...if you can't watch the puppy, put him in his crate. When you're home and able to watch the puppy, then you can use your constant supervision method.

Crate training is easiest with a crate that’s adjustable, because as the puppy grows you’ll need to accommodate for size. When potty training your pup with the crate, it's extremely important you don't leave them too much space. If you put a tiny puppy in a big crate, you’ll end up with a puppy who’ll mess on one side of the crate and play/sleep in the other and never learn the importance of holding their bladder or bowels. Again, keep in mind that very small puppies physically cannot hold their bladders/bowels as long as older pups or adult dogs, so this will work best if you’re able to let the pup out at intervals throughout the day.

Dogs are Den Animals...So Using a Crate is Reinforcing!
Dogs are “den” animals who like a safe, secure place to sleep, so using a crate throughout the life of the dog is actually reinforcing. If you know you're going to continue to utilize a crate into the dog's adult life, the purchase of a large crate makes the most sense economically. Even though they're inherently den-dwelling animals, sometimes the hardest part about crate training is trying to get a scared puppy into the crate in the first place.

The trick when potty-training with a crate is to give your puppy only enough room to stand up and turn around. This might sound cruel, but keep in mind that puppies are continuously growing – they’re going to spend the majority of their day sleeping anyway. By leaving the pup with a minimum of space, you’re “ensuring” that they will hold it as long as they can, because if they mess, they have to lay in it.

Types of Crates
If you do purchase a large crate, you’ll have to either a) find a model which comes with a divider, or b) place some sort of barrier within the crate (which is neither chewable nor movable) to block the pup into a smaller space. Crates that have solid sides are good, but the majority of the time, they’re not adjustable.

Another option is a collapsible wire crate. Not only are they easily toted to other places but they come with a separator which can be moved as needed. Keep in mind that these crates aren’t the typical “den” crates, since they’re made of wire. Also, if the puppy does mess inside, it can leak out the sides and / or you can end up with excrement in the corners of the wire cage – MUCH harder to clean!

Housebreaking With a Crate
Remember, consistency is a must when potty training a puppy. Be sure to bring your pup outside for a potty break right before you put him into the crate. Immediately when you let him out of the crate, take him out again. With very small puppies, the best way to do this successfully is to carry the pup. If they really need to go, they might not be able to hold it until they're outside!

Other than the obvious reasons, the crate training method is wonderful because it teaches the puppy that yes, they can hold it if they have to urinate / defecate. For the first several weeks of their life, whenever the barest urge to go hit them, they'd evacuate. The crate teaches them they're capable of holding off for a bit longer.

Other than remaining consistent - and keeping your puppy on a schedule, if at all possible - you need a lot of patience when potty training a puppy. Some puppies will "get it" right away, while others might struggle with the concept. Stay positive, and you'll get great results!

Potty Training a Puppy

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Constant Supervision: Timing & Consistency
In order to do any type of dog training – potty training, obedience, behavior, etc. – you need to focus on 2 very key points: timing and consistency. I would get frustrated when potty-training my first dog because, “she’s not being consistent with her signals”…when in reality it was I who was not consistent! The dog takes its cue from you, its leader. So if you're not consistent, your training won't proceed smoothly.

Also, timing is important because dogs cannot distinguish 2 seconds ago from 2 minutes / hours ago. So, if you turn around and the dog’s already done its deed, there is no use in correcting the behavior because it’s already in the past. IF, however, you catch the dog in the act, then you can take steps to correct it.

Conversely, if your puppy does what he's supposed to, praise him immediately! Don't let the only thing he hears from you be "No!"

How Do I Know When to Take My Puppy Out?
After knowing that timing and consistency are your weapons for housebreaking your dog, the next step is to know when to take your puppy out to do his deed. This is simple: Any change in activity should prompt you to take the pup outside (or to the designated area if you're using puppy pads). This means whenever the puppy wakes up, gets done eating, finishes playing, etc., they’ll need to be taken out. They won’t always have to go, but chances are – especially the younger the puppy – the majority of the time they’ll at least have to urinate when you take them out. Increased activity will increase the urge to urinate/defecate, so if the pup is outside and you think they might have to go, play fetch for a few minutes or romp around with them.

Keep in mind your young puppy’s bladder is very small, so they won’t physically be able to hold it as long as an older puppy or an adult dog (another reason they need to be taken out constantly). The older they get (plus, the more they understand that creating a mess in the house is unacceptable) the longer they’ll be able to go without being let outside. The “basic” rule of thumb with puppies is for every month in the age of your pup, add 1 and that’s how many hours they can hold it. For example, if your puppy is 4 months old, they “should” be able to hold it for 5 hours. This really doesn’t apply for very young pups, and of course all dogs are different.

Also, this method works wonderfully - when you're home! If you can't watch the dog constantly, another method which can be utilized is crate training.

What Do I Do If I Catch My Puppy In the Act?
So, what do you do if your puppy makes a mess in the house (or in the non-designated area, for apartment-dwellers)? Again, do NOT attempt to “correct” the problem after it’s already happened – it’s only a frustrating experience for you and the puppy since she won’t know why she’s being punished.

You must watch puppies constantly when potty training, and literally follow them around – even if they’ve recently gone outside – because, well, they’re puppies! For the first 8 weeks of their life they evacuate wherever they want and their mother cleans up after them. So, if you notice your pup in a squat (and/or actually peeing/pooping), make a sharp noise (try not to make it too frightening) to not only get the pup’s attention but make it “clamp” and stop messing. Then calmly pick up the puppy and head outside with him. Once there, put the pup down and, once he finishes his duty, praise him with a treat (or by throwing a ball, etc). If the pup doesn’t immediately finish with his duties, you can prompt him to do so by playing with him, making him run, etc – again, going back to the idea that changes in activity often prompt the urge to urinate/defecate.

Some people believe that upon finding the pup messing in the house, the best way to stop the behavior is to rub the pup’s nose in her mess; another method hails to shaking the pup (like her mother would if she was misbehaving), say “NO!” and then take her outside to finish. If a method works for you, it works – I’ve heard many theories on the best practices for housebreaking dogs. In my opinion, though, the best methods for any type of training revolve around positive reinforcement, versus positive punishment.

Eventually, if you're consistent with timing, you'll realize you're worrying less and less about where the puppy is...until one day it will literally "click" and you'll have a potty-trained dog!

About Me

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My name is Sarah Bernier Danks and I'm not just a dog owner, I'm a dog trainer. Sounds egotistical, doesn't it? The truth is, if we own a dog, we're always training - whether we think we are or not!

I grew up with German shepherds, so I always knew I'd have them later in life, too. My canine companion, hiking partner and favorite dog in the entire world is Zada, my European-line GSD. She'll be 3 years old this coming September and I've had her since she was 4 months old.

Immediately after bringing her home I started obedience classes with a dog obedience specialist I'd found online. I still regularly keep her in classes, whether for leash obedience touch-ups or learning tricks through free shaping.

The reason for this blog is two-fold: I learn by doing, so researching and writing about dog training helps me learn it better; also I'm hoping others who have the same questions I did will get some free dog training tips to help with their dogs.

Enjoy, and please feel free to comment and/or ask questions!

-Sarah